Regional Varieties. The Valencian region, like almost everywhere else in the winegrowing world, saw a rush to plant the leading international varietals (Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Merlot, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and others). Spanish varietals such as Tempranillo and Garnacha were also extensively cultivated. But it has become clear that it is in making wines of distinctive character and quality that the future of the industry in the region lies, and making bland supermarket blends is not the way forward. I hope that you willl enjoy the eclectic array of places the links from the different grape names take you to.
Airén: Spain's most planted grape variety, used in the making of both red and white wines. Modern techniques have dramatically improved the white wines produced from this grape, particularly associated with central Spain and Andalusia. In the Valencia region it is mainly found in Alicante. It is much used in the making of Spanish Brandy.
Bobal: This grape, from Utiel-Requena, is perceived as having great possibilities for making fine wine. It already makes excellent rosés. It is also peculiarly high in resveratrol, the potent anti-oxidant that underpins the health benefits of moderate red wine consumption. The largest producer in the region, Bodegas Vicente Gandia, has confirmed its commitment to the grape with its first Bobal varietal, 'Hoya de Cadenas Bobal Viñas Viejas', launched in October 2006. "Formerly regarded as little more than a workhorse grape for turning out hefty reds...work with the Bobal over the past few years has revealed hidden depths of quality in the hands of a careful winemaker." John Radford, The New Spain, (Mitchell Beazley, 2004), p.16.
Cabernet Franc: This Bordeaux variety (parent, with Sauvignon Blanc, of Cabernet Sauvignon) is becoming popular with Spanish winemakers and is being used with some success in the Comunidad Valenciana.
Cabernet Sauvignon: Introduced widely and successfully, the challenge is to make regionally distinctive wines with this international varietal. It makes fine single varietal wines ('Enrique Mendoza Cabernet Sauvignon Crianza') and blends successfully with many other varieties ('Laderas de El Sequé'), providing structure and finesse.
Chardonnay: Can work well in the Valencia region, especially in the higher and cooler parts of all three DOs. It was particularly modish and widely planted in the 1980s and 1990s. Viña Lidón is a good example.
Embolicaire: An obscure local grape grown in the province of Castellón. It produces wines not unlike Bobal, I'm told. I'm still waiting to try 'EV Embolicaire' from Bodegas Enguera (actually I've since spoken to them about this wine and they haven't made it since 2004 and the project is in abeyance for the moment, sadly)..
Forcayat: Another obscure local red grape with high yields, producing wines with a very specific aroma, but rather unstable colours. Authorised in Valencia DO, it is grown in the Clariano sub-zone.
Garnacha Tinta (also known locally as 'Giró'): Widely planted in Spain, being highly productive and resistant. It is important in Rioja, and is having an international smash hit with wines from Priorat in Catalonia. Widely used in red wine blends throughout the Valencia region.
Garnacha Tintorera (also known as 'Alicante' or just as 'Tintorera'): This is a variant Garnacha found in the Valencia region. It has unusually red flesh, but it does more than provide colour. It is a tricky grape, but if managed well gives an exceptional fruity quality.
Macabeo (also called Viura): "Tends to have a vaguely floral character and relatively low acidity" (Jancis Robinson [ed.], The Oxford Companion to Wine) mildly acidic young whites, or blended with other varieties, especially in the making of Cava. It is the main grape used to make white Rioja.
Mandó: Another variety that was on the point of disappearing, but has been rescued by Celler del Roure, who use it in their star Maduresa (with its 93 points from Robert Parker).
Merlot: From the Bordeaux region, it is the basis for many fine, highly aromatic wines. After Cabernet Sauvignon, it is the most widespread grape variety in the world. It has also adapted well to the region, bringing lightness to the region's hot climate reds.
Merseguera (click on the Union Jack symbol here for a haphazard, but comprehensible, automatic translation of the entry): The main white grape of the Valencia region, especially DO Valencia.
Monastrell (known as Mourvèdre in France): A classic Mediterranean grape, grown in the Valencia region since its introduction at the time of the Crusades, robust and high in alcohol yet with good fruit, undergoing a boom particularly just south of Valencia in Murcia (especially DO Jumilla and DO Yecla). It is also used in the making of good rosés and sought after sweet wines, including Fondillón. Try, for example, 'Icono Monastrell' or, more expensively, 'Rafael Cambra Uno'.
Moscatel de Alejandría: The signature white grape of the Valencia region, where it's been grown for over 2,000 years. It makes Valencia's famous sweet wines, but there are also dry Moscatels (such as Castillo de Chiva Moscatel Seco).
Planta Fina de Pedralba: Local to the Valentino sub-zone in Valencia, it has a distinctive aroma and responds well to barrel ageing.
Riesling: Grown in Alicante. The Mediterranean is not its natural home, but for lovers of this grape, like me, it's always good to find. Try the 'Santiago Poveda Riesling'.
Sauvignon Blanc: This cool climate wine is not especially widely used. Successful examples are Vicente Gandia's 'El Miracle' white, a Chardonnay-Sauvignon Blanc blend, 'Vallblanca' in its eyecatching blue bottle (Macabeo and Sauvignon Blanc), and 'Florante' from Emilio Clemente in Utiel-Requena, which is a blend of Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and the local Tardana.
Semillon: A rarity in Spain, this grape is one of the world's leading varieties, even though it is usually blended with other varieties. It's extremely difficult to come up with a list of defining tastes and aromas that are characteristic of this grape, nonetheless, Semillon is well worth keeping an eye on. Covibex is one of the few Spanish bodegas (possibly the only one) to make a Semillon monovarietal with their Viña Bárbara.
Syrah: This varietal is not widely grown elsewhere in Spain, but has thrived in the Valencia region, so much so that the line between Requena and Rambla de la Albosa has been referred to as 'el bulevar del Syrah' (the Syrah boulevard).
Tardana (also known as Planta Nova): A rustic local variety grown in Utiel-Requena and Valencia, it is late-ripening, slightly aromatic with a rather neutral taste. It is used on its own with some success ('Sybarus Tardana') and also in blends (again in Emilio Clemente's 'Florante').
Tempranillo: Spain's star native red grape. It provides elegance, aromatic concentration and complexity of flavour to the wines, and has fine ageing qualities. Planted successfully throughout the Valencia region and used on its own and in blends.
Tortosí: A very rare local grape grown in the Valle de Albaida and Clariano. It ripens well and can produce aromatic wines.
Verdil: Another local grape, one which was close to disappearing (under 10 hectares remained in Spain in the mid-90s). It is a difficult grape to make wine with. Early picking and modern vinification achieve enjoyably light fresh wines. Daniel Belda has been a key figure in exploring the possibilities of the grape and the rather elegant results can be savoured in Daniel Belda Verdil.
winesofvalencia.com - A personal look at the world of Valencian wine