Vicente Todolí, the director of the Tate Modern (which describes itself as the most visited modern-art museum in the world) since 2002, is a native of Valencia. He used his local knowledge to compare scenes from a Bank Holiday weekend at the gallery with a "crowded beach in Benidorm", while pushing for the dramatic extension to the museum (see below), which has just received planning permission (28-03-07), but it won't be an easy ride if one's experience of such things is anything to go by.
'I'm just an amateur,' says Todoli. 'Of course the real professional is Hamish [Anderson, the wine buyer].' Todoli is almost as passionate about food and wine as he is about art. He likes 'hot-climate' wines: 'I like to feel the sun, the fruit, the ripeness, intensity; wines that are like meeting a new person, that make you think "nice to meet you!".' During his spell in Portugal, he developed a strong taste for the new Douro red table wines and, because his work takes him to Italy, he's also a fan of Tuscany and the Italian south: Campania, Sicily and Puglia. But his first move has been to put some wines from his home town under the spotlight. 'When I was growing up, wines from Valencia were undrinkable, but it has changed in the past five years. There has also been a revolution in (neighbouring) Utiel-Requena.' Currently, a red from the BOCOPA co-operative in Alicante, just south of Valencia, is the house red. It is 'a crowd pleaser', comments Todoli, 'and not very tannic.' Fortunately, Anderson agreed when Todoli's BOCOPA bottles were put with others into a tasting. 'I don’t make any decisions,' Todoli insists, 'it's completely outside my remit; just like when I try the food in the restaurant.' The Tate is also the only British importer of the visionary sweet Muscats called Casta Diva. Gutiérrez de la Vega, who makes them in Alicante, insists that fine wine deserves the same respect as fine art. Todoli's not so sure, but appreciates the connection: 'It's more a kind of alchemy, it is about innovation and experimentation. And Gutiérrez de la Vega makes very personal wines.'
"Viña Ulises 2001 abv 13.5% Bodegas Gutiérrez de la Vega, Alicante, Spain £24.00 bottle The label of this wine has been designed by the British pop artist Richard Hamilton. A fitting tribute to the owner whose sweet and red wines have put Alicante on the map."
Though it would be cheaper to go down the road to Tate Britain where the same wine sells for £19.00, as you can see from their list. Tate Britain also offers a Monastrell Vino de Licor, Sol de Alicante from Bodegas Bocopa at £18.00 for a 50cl bottle.
Proposed Tate Modern extension
winesofvalencia.com - A personal look at the world of Valencian wine
